For the past couple of seasons, New York Fashion Week has persisted in spite of some gaping holes in its schedule. In 2017, major headliners like Thom Browne, Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte decamped to Paris, Rachels Comey and Zoe left for L.A., Hood By Air went on hiatus and Opening Ceremony dropped by Disneyland. It was nice in a way. The lack of big names left space for newish designers – Eckhaus Latta, Telfar, Gypsy Sport — to move in, have their presence felt, reinvigorate New York’s artsy, cool, clever vibe.
Now it seems some former defectors have felt the change in the air. The Spring 2019 shows kick off Thursday, September 6, the official CFDA calendar is up and some very notable names are back on its roster. Keep scrolling for a breakdown of all the NYFW Spring 2019 designer comings and goings. Spoiler alert: the week has a new (unofficial) closer.
At the start of last year, design duo Kate and Laura Mulleavy announced they’d be leaving New York Fashion Week for Paris Couture Week, then ditching the traditional fashion calendar entirely. True to their word, the sisters held their Spring 2018 show in a flowery French garden, then released an Autumn de Wilde-lensed photo album for Fall 2018 — no catwalk, only press appointments. For a while season there, we feared we’d seen the last Rodarte runway.
That is, until July 23, when the Mulleavys posted the following on Instagram:
Phew. Rodarte’s sure-to-be-dreamy Spring 2019 show will take place on Sunday, September 9 at 6 p.m.
Speaking of former Americans in Paris, Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez will also be returning to the States (after taking off to Paris in January 2017 and leaving New York fashion industry people nursing their broken hearts).
“It’s been a fun ride showing the past two seasons in Paris during Couture (thank you Chambre Syndicale) but New York will always be home so we are coming back for Spring Summer 2019,” the brand shared via Instagram. “In today’s world, when, where, and how one shows can be looser and more fluid than ever and so for now, New York is our home once again. Paris was an amazing opportunity to show what we do to a completely different audience that had never been able to attend a Proenza Schouler show and on that level, as well as on a creative level, it felt really right. We want to thank everyone that was responsible for making Paris an unforgettable experience. Looking forward to heading back home now and being a part of NYFW in September, where it all began.” Proenza will make its triumphant return on Monday, September 10 at 4 p.m.
Last season, in lieu of one of her reliably wild runway shows, British punk icon and designer Vivienne Westwood released a 2-minute, 46-second video showing artfully disheveled street-cast models — her “Vivienne Westwood army” — discussing the empowering nature of clothes and paling around in a studio and the streets of London. (Those who missed it can watch it here.) For Spring 2019, Westwood is bringing her collection to the States, but still denying us a (live) spectacle. She’ll hold a buyers-only presentation on September 6 between 12 p.m. and 2 p.m.
French heritage brand Longchamp, which recently celebrated its 70th birthday, is packing up its nylon Le Pliages (you know, those totes everyone uses as their work-gym-weekend bags) and heading to NYFW — this on the heels of the brand opening its first New York City flagship, collaborating with Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver and hiring Kendall Jenner as its new face. Perhaps she’ll walk in the brand’s September 8 show.
Opening Ceremony regularly uses its (typically off-season) shows to make a statement, foster community, incorporate forms of art outside of design. Last season, it was a March 7 show at Disneyland in California, the season before, a protest-themed ballet titled The Times are Racing. For Spring 2019, the arbiter of downtown cool will give insiders “The Gift of Showz,” a fashion show created in collaboration with legendary performer Sasha Velour, of Ru Paul’s Drag Race fame. (She won season nine.) Believe it or not, the event will take place during NYFW proper, on Sunday, September 9 at 8 p.m. It’ll feature special performances and guest appearances, as well as, you know, really good clothes.
Savage x Fenty
Sorry, Marc Jacobs; sorry, Puma. After taking a season off, Queen of All Our Hearts Rihanna will close out New York Fashion Week on September 12 with a Savage x Fenty Fall 2018 presentation in Brooklyn. The “immersive experience” starts at 7:30 p.m., giving fashion people just enough time to scamper over after Jacobs’ 6 p.m.-on-the-dot show.
And because Rih just gets us, all the furry, lacy, naughty things will be immediately available for purchase at Savagex.com, pop-up shops in New York and the Mall of America, plus two other (currently unknown) locations. Get ready for the sexiest, most body-positive runway NYFW’s ever seen.
From here on out — or until he announces otherwise via Instagram — Alexander Wang will be showing off-season. The designer known for his glamleisurewear, guerrilla runway shows and capital-L Lit after parties will now follow a June/December show schedule. Each June, he’ll present a “Collection 1,” which will be available for purchase October through March, followed by a “Collection 2” runway in December, with product that will drop between April and August.
“Our customer doesn’t really understand seasonality — they’re always traveling, we have stores around the world. Being part of a spring/summer or a fall/winter fashion week felt like: How can we make a statement about not being seasonal if we’re participating in a seasonal fashion week?” said Wang of his decision to switch business models. His inaugural “Collection 1” debuted on June 3 at a rooftop show at New York City’s South Street Seaport. But you already knew that.