The lady in the skin know is makeup artist, Pati Dubroff, who’s hot off the Bafta night shift making Margot Robbie red-carpet ready. Dubroff is an A-lister herself in the makeup world, and a favourite with the Hollywood elite including Priyanka Chopra and Kate Bosworth, for her gorgeous glowing skin and stunning lip and eye creations. Case in point: Margot’s electric blue liner and lashes that mirrored the frill sleeves and sequinned beads on her striking Chanel couture gown.
Pati reveals skincare is always the start point for any look, to create a lit-from-within feel and the ‘juicier’ the skin the better.
“Skin is everything. I mean everything and I’ll spend more time on the skin than the makeup. It makes eyeshadow or lipstick application quicker to bang out, and if the skin doesn’t look incredible, it doesn’t matter how big you want the features to be, they’re not going to look good. Skincare prep makes it look more alive, so you’re not having to fake it with foundation, blushers, highlighters.”
Her perfect skin prep routine? “Ideally, I’ll have half an hour, but if I’m crunched for time, I’ll pop on a sheet mask. It’s my time cheat, so if I don’t know what my client is wearing beforehand, it gives me time to rummage through the colours in my kit. When the sheet mask comes off, then it’s all about the massage.”
Fingers are your always-on tools that you can rely on, says Pati. “Just get in there with fingers and carve along the cheekbones on the pressure points and it will help move fluids from the under-eye area. Pressing down at either side of the bridge of the nose will also help shift any lymphatic fluids.” She also has some serious pro tools at the ready. Her favourites include the Nano Current Skincare Device, £425, ZIIP. “The focus is on lifting, plumping, moving fluids, getting the skin boosted, boosted, boosted.”
Next up give skin a hit of hydration. “I’ll pat the Bader cream [Rich Cream, £205, Augustinus Bader] on the perimeter of the face. I’ve been using it personally for 13 months and the plumpness and bounce of my skin came back. I’ve had some pigmentation that’s faded too, that was amazing. Throughout the day, I’d put it on when I have a glass of water, it’s like a hit of skin hydration.”
To ace your base, Pati rates a mattifying primer. “I’ll put primer through the centre so that it reduces the need for powder and helps the foundation stick. I’ll mix multiple shades of foundation, and multiple textures, so the skin looks like skin. I love the Suqqu liquid foundation [Nude Wear Liquid, £46, Suqqu], but if I’m working with someone who has a deeper skin tone, then I’ll use Nars or Tom Ford.
With skin glowing, it’s time for the fun colour adds and RN it’s all about that electric blue. ‘Margot’s dress had amazing coloured beads and I was trying to pick up on these, so I went with the electric blue and then deeper blue and black to replicate the sleeve.”
“I wanted the eye to feel a bit feathery so I used a few different coloured mascaras. Blue liner and mascara from the inner corner to the centre, then the black liner and black mascara on the outer corners, so it framed the eye and then a tiny bit of glitter to really pop the colour,” reveals Pati.
Now, pass the liner, thanks.