Home » Fashion » Maria Grazia Chiuri on what it means to be a woman in a woman’s world

Maria Grazia Chiuri on what it means to be a woman in a woman’s world

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In the two years that Maria Grazia Chiuri has been creative director at Dior, a new kind of feminism has arrived, galvanised by global accounts of abuse in politics, pop and cinema. Her sprightly realism has paired snappy slogan T-shirts with dreamy embroidered dresses in tulle. She is a mother, a wife, an artist, a friend, a daughter—and her Dior dresses all of these archetypes. Just two weeks before her spring/summer 2019 show, we meet in the shadows of the famed Avenue Montaigne store, which is wrapped in youthquake graffiti marking the 50th anniversary of May 1968. Settled on a dove-grey sofa, sipping water from a bottle, Chiuri is both calm and reflective. If she is stressed about the upcoming show, which will include a conceptual dance piece choreographed by Tel Aviv-based Sharon Eyal and some 88 looks, she doesn’t show it—her phone remains out of sight for the next hour. Chiuri, dressed in jeans, a white shirt, and sandals, talks with her hands. As she moves, her fingers flick under the weight of piles of gothic rings and antique stones and around her neck is a fine gold Superman logo pendant—a gift from her 22-year-old daughter, Rachele. “The ‘S’ stands for super mother!” Chiuri laughs.

I read somewhere that Rachele is a big influence on your work. What does she teach you?

Like a lot of young people, she has so many doubts about the future. They seem to believe that they have to do or make something important. They think that they have to prove themselves but I think they should relax and take things step by step. When I was 22, I wasn’t thinking much about the future—we should enjoy our lives.

There’s a real sense of urgency now. We’re consuming fashion 24 hours a day via social media and it is affecting our attitudes to everything—from the way we look to the way we think.

The pressure is the same for men and women; I can see it in my son, who is 25, as well as my daughter. They’ve grown up with Instagram. They recognise themselves only in the image they have created online. Instagram is a revolution just like the TV was for my generation.

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Photographed by: Bikramjit Bose. Shirt, shoes; both Dior. Jewellery, Maria’s own

Years after the television was invented, people became suspicious of it. Just as we are now becoming wary of social media.

When I was a kid it was “Oh, you can see the TV for only two hours after lunch or one hour in the evening.” That was it! I think we have to begin educating people to use digital technology in a way that is appropriate. I don’t think the problem is only with young people—it’s everybody. My mother is 80 years old and she is on her iPad before bed, looking at Instagram. She follows my entire studio! This summer when I was in Rome, she invited me to have dinner and when she arrived, the first thing she said was: “Oh, I’m very happy to see you but I would like to see the bag… so where is the bag?” I didn’t know what she was talking about: “Everybody is talking about the Saddle! Where is the Saddle?!?” she said. So if Instagram is affecting an 80-year-old woman, you can imagine what is happening.

How has your mother influenced your idea of feminism?

She was very independent. My grandmother was, too; my grandfather died in the war and she had to bring up four kids on her own. She decided not to re-marry because she wanted to maintain her independence. If you grow up in a family like that, it’s impossible to not believe in women having the same opportunities as men. I remember my mother liked to be independent from my father and he was very open-minded. Today, I think we have forgotten to respect each other. I am worried about teaching my son to respect women, to have a dialogue, to believe in humanity.

The T-shirt from your first collection was an exclamation point. A moment that really announced your arrival at Dior.

When I arrived, everybody spoke to me about femininity and I thought, but what does it mean to be feminine today? What does it mean to be a woman today? We started to think of a T-shirt because it is a way to speak to everybody. And also because this was a message, not just clothes. Later, I was at the Brooklyn Museum in New York and saw a girl of about 11 or 12 wearing a fake version of that T-shirt. I was so thrilled. She had no idea that it was made for Dior, or who I was—she bought it for the message.

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Photographed by: Bikramjit Bose. Shirt, Dior. Jewellery, Maria’s own

You moved to another country, away from your family, to take up this new job. That couldn’t have been easy.

It really wasn’t. I was 52, I left my family in Rome. That’s why I thought we had to speak about how women want to be today. I wrote to Chimamanda [Ngozi Adichie] because I was obsessed with her book and her talk. I read We Should All Be Feminists with my daughter. I didn’t have a clear idea of what it meant to arrive at Dior. Here, in Paris, you feel that this is a fashion city and Dior is a big brand with a long past, but for Italians history is something that is part of our life. In France, they maintain their history. I had around three to four weeks to do my first collection and I heard people say it was a revolution because my approach was just a little bit different.

Your S/S 2018 show opened with a marinière sweater emblazoned with Linda Nochlin’s 1971 essay title ‘Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?’ Tell us more.

I did that because I think the world is full of stereotypes. We are told that the geniuses are all men because in school you study only Caravaggio, Raphael… We don’t study women artists. They aren’t in the book.

How has this attitude shaped your approach and the codes you have established for your Dior?

I want the collections to have something for every woman to find and mix in a personal way. It depends on whether you want to take care of the new audience or not. I think that is my job; to give my point of view and, at the same time, give them a collection that they can really personalise.

How did you prepare for personalising Dior?

Oh, I read all the books! When we speak about Dior we are speaking about 70 years. We are not only talking about Mr Dior but also all the other designers that made this house. Mr Dior was very close to femininity but his women came from the Second World War; they wanted to be more romantic, more escapist. But if you see the women of Marc Bohan, and before him [Yves] Saint Laurent, it is evident that women were changing. There’s a revolution. You see pants, short skirts. So the question is this: Is it the designer who changed the women or the women who changed the designer? Now, everybody can give their point of view. I believe in freedom—and to find a way in which you can express that. I believe that a dress can help do that because it is so close to your body.

What worries you about today?

The risk is that if we go too fast, we don’t see each other. When all our life is lived through videos and pictures, the risk is that you stop looking outside that.

You don’t post on Instagram even though your work seems to come from this meeting of female power and the #TimesUp voice that’s growing louder.

I’m a normal woman who is just a little bit worried for the future! This idea of showing everything about yourself, sharing it all, you risk losing the pleasure of intimacy. It’s important to maintain a part of you that’s only for you.

Hair & makeup: Noelia Corral. Production: Joao Braz, MAD Productions. Photographer’s assistants: Tony Querrec; Robin Guittat. Assistant stylist: Fabio Immediato

Read more in Vogue India’s November 2018 issue that hit stands on November 5, 2018

Vogue-India-November-2018-cover

Photographed by: Bikramjit Bose. Styled by: Anaita Shroff Adajania

On Kareena: Bikini top, Melissa Odabash

Hair: Ajay Kaloya (Ranbir); Priyanka Borkar (Alia); Yianni Tsapatori/ Faze Management (Kareena). Makeup: Mickey Contractor (Kareena); Hemant Naik (Ranbir); Puneet B Saini (Alia). Production: Imran Khatri Productions; Divya Jagwani. Photographer’s assistants: Vikas Gotra (Ranbir). Assistant stylists: Priyanka Kapadia; Fabio Immediato; Aradhana Baruah. Editorial assistant: Janine Dubash

Now Playing: Faye D’Souza at the Vogue Women Of The Year Awards 2018

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data: {"page_no":pageNumber,'get_all_post_ids':get_all_post_ids}
}).done(function(data) {
//console.log("infinite_data",data);
load_start = 0;Articlecount++;
data = JSON.parse(data);
$('.loader_img').hide();
if(!data.sponsored_status&&!isLoggedIn&&!data.issue_id) singleStoryCookie(data.article_id);
isSponsored = data.sponsored_status;

ADPostId = data.article_id;

$(".next_article:last").hide();
if(!data.is_mobile)
{
$( ".topadbnr:first" ).remove();
}

data.page_no_i = data.page_no + 1;
data.encoded_permalink = encodeURI(data.permalink);

//related Stories start
var sponsored = 'no';
if(data.sponsored_status) sponsored = 'yes';
var topic_tags = [];
$.each(data.topic_tags,function(index,tag){
topic_tags.push(tag.term_id);
});
/*if(is_sponsored==1)
{
get_related_stories(data.page_no,data.article_id,'yes',data.category_term_id,topic_tags.join(','));
}
else
{
get_related_stories(data.page_no,data.article_id,'no',data.category_term_id,topic_tags.join(','));
}*/

if(!data.sponsored_status) load_instory_cta_ajax(data.article_id,data.page_no, data.category_term_id, data.magazineid);

//mustache code
var template = $('#template').html();
Mustache.parse(template); // optional, speeds up future uses
var rendered = Mustache.render(template, data);
if(Cookies.get('cn_bid'))
{
dataLayerBID = Cookies.get('cn_bid');
re = new RegExp("<%shareBid%>", "g");
rendered = rendered.replace(re, dataLayerBID);
}
$("#load_article_content").append(rendered);
$("img.lazy").lazyload({
skip_invisible : true
});

if(data.issue_id)
{
marketing_text = data.marketing_text;
check_ref_sub(data.article_id, data.issue_id, 'internal', data.guid, data.page_no);
}

var google_category = $(".topadbnr:last").attr('data-google-category');
var sponsor_ad = $(".topadbnr:last").attr('data-sponsor-story');
var is_sponsored = $(".topadbnr:last").attr("data-is-sponsored");
var leaderboardcode = $(".topadbnr:last").attr("data-leaderboard-code");
var mpucode = $(".topadbnr:last").attr("data-mpu-code");

if(!data.is_magazine)
{
if(!data.is_mobile)
{
$("#header-leaderboard-ad").html(data.leaderboard_ad);
}
// $('#mpu-ad-slot').html(data.mpu_ad);
// $("#secondary-mpu-ad-slot").html(data.mpu_ad2);
mpuAd = data.mpu_ad;
}
if(!data.is_mobile)
{
dfpCount = 0;
totalInterval = 0;
clearInterval(ADintervalLeaderboard);
autoADtimerLeaderboard();
clearInterval(ADintervalMPU);
autoADtimerMPU();
}

var currentDiv = $("#next_story_"+(parseInt(pageNumber))+'_'+next_article_id);
cnReplaceUrlandTitle(currentDiv.data("post-title"), currentDiv.data("post-url"));
gtmSingleContinuousScroll();
processBrightcoveVideos();
if(animation==1)
{
if(isMobile.any())
{
$("html, body").animate({
scrollTop: $("#next_story_"+(parseInt(pageNumber))+'_'+next_article_id).offset().top - $("#navBar").outerHeight() - $('#topadbnr').outerHeight() + 20
}, 600);
} else {
$("html, body").animate({
scrollTop: $("#next_story_"+(parseInt(pageNumber))+'_'+next_article_id).offset().top - $("#navBar").outerHeight() - $('#topadbnr').outerHeight()
}, 600);
}
}
onloadAjax.initAll();
});
}
} else {
if(animation==1)
{
console.log($("#next_story_"+(parseInt(pageNumber))+'_'+next_article_id).offset().top, $("#navBar").outerHeight(), $('#topadbnr').outerHeight());
if(isMobile.any())
{
$("html, body").animate({
scrollTop: $("#next_story_"+(parseInt(pageNumber))+'_'+next_article_id).offset().top - $("#navBar").outerHeight() - $('#topadbnr').outerHeight() + 20
}, 600);
} else {
$("html, body").animate({
scrollTop: $("#next_story_"+(parseInt(pageNumber))+'_'+next_article_id).offset().top - $("#navBar").outerHeight() - $('#topadbnr').outerHeight()
}, 600);
}
}
}
} else {
load_start = 1;
$('.loader_img:last').hide();
}
}

$(document).on('click', '.subscription_popup .content_btns', function(){
gtmMagazineHomeSubscribe("WebStory Page - "+$(this).data("price"), "Subscribe Button Click");
});

$(document).on('click','.close_reg_wall', function(){
$('.reg_wall_v2').fadeOut();
});

$(window).load(function(){
// alert($('body').find('.has-responsive-video').width());

if($(window).width() < 768) { $('.reg_wall_v2').width($(window).width()); } else{ $('.reg_wall_v2').width($('.has-responsive-video').width()); } })


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